the painted surface
How To Use Dry Erase Paint
Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint mimics dry erase board. It creates a smooth writeable-erasable surface on most interior surfaces such as drywall, masonite, wood, cement or metal. It can be applied over existing painted walls or on new sheetrock after first priming the surface with the appropriate primer. When fully cured use dry erase markers for leaving messages, drawing diagrams, recording recipes, or creating works of art.
This article covers the use of Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint, Product No. 241140. There is a professional version for commercial applications, it is Product No. 261362. I have not seen this version for sale but it is on Rust-Oleum's website. The product I always see in paint, department and home improvement stores is the DIY version, Product No. 241140.
Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Painting Tips
- Ventilate the room.
- Rust-Oleum Dry Erase paint is low-odor but it is always best to paint in an area with some ventilation. Open doors or windows as needed and use a fan if necessary to provide fresh air. The air and surface temperature should be in the range of 50 to 90 degrees.
- Consider using disposable tools.
- The dry erase paint is a two part epoxy and once mixed the working life of the paint is between 1 and 2 hours. One reference says as little as 1 hour and another says 2 hours so follow the instructions on the label of the product you are using to be sure. Plan on completing the project immediately once the paint is mixed. The mixing ratio is 19 oz. of Part B to 8 oz. of Part A. Being very careful with the measurements you could mix a little at time if the entire packaged amount is too much.
- For the smoothest finish it is recommended to use a foam roller and foam brushes. Because of the limited working time of the paint and I was not sure how well the paint would wash out I did not plan on cleaning the tools. Unless you are painting a large area small throw-away type foam roller kits can be bought very cheaply and used for the dry erase project. As the photos show this project was only about 3x5 feet so a small foam roller and foam brush was all I needed.
- Determine the size of the area to paint.
- Mark off with pencil (not pen, it will bleed through the paint) the area you want to paint. The surface should be clean, wash if dirty and allow to fully dry. If needed sand the surface to the desired smoothness. Wipe with a tack cloth, lint-free cloth or vacuum the dust from the wall. Wear safety glasses and the proper breathing mask whenever sanding. If the possibility of lead paint exists the paint should be tested and precautions taken. Lead test kits are available at paint and home improvement stores.
- Mask and cover adjacent surfaces.
- The paint is thin so it will drip from the brush or specks will be thrown off from the spinning foam roller. Do not overload the tools to minimize splatters. The use of the green FrogTape® brand of painter's tape to mask off the area leaves sharp clean lines and removes easily from painted surfaces. Once the painter's tape is in place burnish down the edge you will paint up to with finger tip pressure to get a good seal between the tape and the surface to prevent the dry erase paint from bleeding under the tape. The photo shows two sections taped of, the top is to be painted with Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint and the bottom will be painted with Valspar's Chalkboard Paint. An article about the use of chalkboard paint can be seen here, Valspar Chalkboard Paint.
- Prime dark colors.
- Dark colors need to be primed white because the dry erase paint does not cover well. To achieve full coverage only paint over light colors.
- Saturate the foam roller.
- Foam rollers may tend to leave tiny air bubbles in the finish. To avoid this work the paint well into the roller before using it. If using a roller tray roll the roller back and forth until the roller is wet with paint and the air is worked out. As warned earlier you do not want to overload the roller but just saturate it with the paint.
- Apply multiple coats.
- A minimum of two coats is recommended over light colors and more if painting over dark colors. Drying times between recoats will vary but with temperatures in the 70's and humidity about 50% additional coats can probably be applied after about 30 minutes. This paint is somewhat runny so I applied 4 coats being careful not to put it on too heavy to avoid sags and runs. I also put on 4 coats because with each coat it looked more opaque, I wanted to build up a thick enough layer and there was enough paint to do so since with the limited working time it could not be saved. This article is continued on page 2.
Warning!!! If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS SUCH AS BRAIN DAMGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the U.S.EPA/Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.